Food and flames: BBQ revolution
Cooking has been a central part of my life from a very young age. I started early and have clear, precious memories of my grandmother teaching me how to prepare basic meals for her and my grandfather. She had been left physically incapacitated after multiple strokes and they moved in with us once my grandfather’s Alzheimer’s reached a stage where he couldn’t look after them both.
Granny grew up in Burma (as it was then known), trained as a nurse in Dublin and at the start of WWII she joined the nursing corps and travelled the world. By the end of the war, she had fallen in love with her final posting in East Africa and decided to stay. She met my grandfather and they built their life together in Tanzania until Uhuru in 1961, when they left Africa and moved to Devon.
I tell you this not out of envy for an adventurous life (although I am envious) but so that you can grasp how unsettling it was for a woman, who had never truly lived in the UK (despite Irish roots), a woman for whom flavour and spicing were almost a religion, to be deposited in rural Devon in the sixties. Pepper was exotic, olive oil came from the pharmacy, garlic was foreign and ginger? Forget it. Her lust for flavour, tempered by an exultation of British cuisine and ingredients, also underpins my own approach to cooking.
Why is this relevant? Because food is history. Food is family. Food is tradition. Food is culture. I need to be clear from the outset that my interpretation of food is not purist: exploration is in my blood and I rejoice in a hedonistic quest for flavour. This column will take inspiration from Mercurius’ themes, starting with “Fire”.
Darwin stated that fire was humanity’s second greatest achievement (the first is communication) enabling our rich, quality diet and thus the growth of our brains. Whichever origin story you choose to believe, happy accident or a Promethean pity-driven theft from the Gods, the fact remains that fire is a gift. A terrible gift at times but one which inspires primeval awe across all peoples, all continents, all races.
This fascination in large swaths of the world has culminated in the worship of the barbecue. At this point, I will take a breath, skirt round any gender stereotypes and introduce my barbecue-obsessed partner-in-cooking, Matt. Cooking over flames has undergone a renaissance in recent years, fuelled by science and a quest for flavour. The overwhelming majority of Michelin starred restaurants now feature some type of parilla from the rustic (think Francis Malman) to the refined (think Neil Rankin).
Matt has watched, read and participated in this revolution with a devoted fervour that is much more complex than simple pyromania. And me? Well I am both helpful sous-chef and joyous devourer of his delicious creations. Throughout the entirety of lockdown, the UK has experienced unprecedented sunshine and warmth. We’ve cooked outside almost every day. We are lucky to live in the countryside and have enjoyed continued access to high-quality local produce throughout. Supplemented by our own extensive herb garden.
So tonight we are cooking a glorious treat.
Bone-in wing rib steak* with charred courgette asparagus salad and coal-baked sweet potatoes.
*Bone-in wing rib can be hard to source. Effectively it is a sirloin steak with the rib bone left in. Develop a good relationship with your local butcher!
Raw bone-in wing rib steak
Wing Rib Steak with herb brush Barbecue preparation
Everything makes a difference on a barbecue. From the choice of wood, charcoal or briquettes to the quality of seal around the rim (for steaming and smoking) to the use and type of wood chips. There are no really wrong answers here, just flavour variation.
Cheap charcoal is not yours or the environment’s friend.
We are using a Weber Master Touch charcoal barbecue with some high-quality, locally-sourced briquettes and the addition of a handful of Pecan wood chips for a light smoky flavour. Wood chips need to be soaked in water for 30 minutes before adding to the fire. We will eschew the use of a full water pan under the grill because with steak you need a high temperature. That said, we will set up the barbecue with two zones (one cooler) so that we can ensure that everything is cooked through once seared.
Two zone cooking
For the meat
I am a strong believer that good ingredients should be treated with respect. Simple is often best as it means that the natural flavours are emphasised.
Prep-wise, we are just going to rub the steak with olive oil and salt.
Don’t season with pepper until removed from the heat as it will burn and can become acrid.
Wing-Rib is a semi-lean cut so should be served rare to medium-rare (not blue) so that the fat has had a chance to render out.
We’ll play it by ear but should be around 5 minutes each side.
On your last turn, use a herb brush to coat each side with a little melted butter.
For the salad
Barbecued vegetables are a revelation, especially once coupled with herbs and some strong parmesan.
Pre-cooking toss the courgettes and asparagus in some olive oil and salt.
Grill until softish (I like a little bite) with good charring marks.
Take off the heat, toss with a touch of balsamic vinegar and a little more oil, if needed, and leave to cool.
Once cool, pour onto a platter, shave over a strong, hard cheese (we are using parmigiano reggiano but a mature pecorino is perfect) and then scatter over some fresh herbs. I’m going for a strong peppery flavour so will use basil and marjoram.
Barbecued salad: Charred Courgette and Asparagus Salad with Marjoram, Basil and Parmesan
For the sweet potatoes…
Couldn’t be easier.
Wrap in two layers of foil and put directly on the coals, should take around 30 minutes to cook through.
I’m going to add a blob of crème fraiche with fresh chives chopped through to melt into the flesh before serving.
Plating up is not my speciality…
Enjoy!